Installation Tips...

WARNING: Do not attempt any automotive repairs without having proper experience or without consulting a licensed technician.

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How to Install Hub Bearing Assemblies

  • Before you begin, always make sure you're vehicle is safely suspended on jack stands.
  • Remove the tire from the vehicle.
  • Remove the two bolts that mount the caliper to the Hub Bearing Assembly.
  • Although we did not do it in this video, always have your caliper supported. Do not put undue pressure on the brake hose.
  • Right now we are taking off the axle nut. If you are not using air tools, this should be done while the car is on the ground with the wheels blocked.
  • Remove the three mounting bolts for the hub bearing. You can access them from the back.
  • At this point, if you are at home you will need to use a hammer to get the hub bearing to start to move. Sometimes they are quite tight.
  • The surfaces here need to be cleaned make reassembly nice and easy and also to give the hub bearing a nice surface to mount to.
  • Use wheel bearing grease to help slow down corrosion and make reassembly easier.
  • At this point, put the three bolts back in. Make sure you hand-tighten them at least three rotations before you tighten them completely.
  • Put the axle nut back on. It needs to be torqued to proper specifications in order to prevent premature wear of the hub bearing. If you are not using air tools, this step need to be completed at the end with a torque wrench while the vehicle is on the ground with the wheels blocked.
  • Put the rotor back onto the hub bearing assembly. You may find it easier to put a nut on to hold it in place while you're doing your other work.
  • Remount the caliper bracket.
  • Tighten these bolts by hand first. Afterward, make sure to tighten them down to proper specification.
  • Put the rest of the brake assembly back together.
  • When tightening the wheel, go in a star pattern. This will ensure that equal pressure is placed on the rotor.
  • Always double-check your work, and after any repair make sure to test drive your vehicle.
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How to Change Brakes

  • Before you begin, always make sure you're vehicle is safely suspended on jack stands.
  • Remove the tire from the vehicle.
  • Remove the bolts for the spindles.
  • Remove the two bolts that mount the caliper to the hub assembly.
  • Although we have not shown it here, after removing the old brake pads, you will need to push the piston back into the caliper using a c-clamp or pliers.
  • It is very important to clean up where the brake pads sit.
  • Make sure there is no rust or anything that binds them from moving back and forth during application of the brakes.
  • In this video we used a 90-degree disk sander. At home you can use a file.
  • Be sure not to remove any unnecessary metal.
  • Apply an anti-corrosion compound.
  • Next is the sliders. Always take them out and re-lube them to make sure they move nice and smoothly within the caliper housing. Failure to do so will cause uneven braking and premature, uneven pad wear.
  • Put the rotor back onto the hub assembly. You may find it easier to put a nut on to hold it in place while you're doing your other work.
  • Remount the caliper bracket.
  • Put the new brake pads into place.
  • Fit the caliper back onto the rotor. Make sure your brake pads are properly placed.
  • Tighten these bolts by hand first. Afterward, make sure to tighten them down to proper specification.
  • When tightening the wheel, go in a star pattern. This will ensure that equal pressure is placed on the rotor.
  • Always test drive your vehicle. Remember to give yourself added braking distance. New brake pads tend to glide for the first fifty to a hundred kilometers before they are broken in.
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How to Replace a Complete Strut Assembly

  • Before you begin, always make sure you're vehicle is safely suspended on jack stands.
  • Remove the tire from the vehicle.
  • Remove the mounting bolt for the stabilizer link.
  • Remove the bottom mounting bolt for the complete strut assembly.
  • Remove the brake line mounting bracket.
  • Remove the two bolts that mount the caliper to the hub assembly.
  • Although we did not do it in this video, always have your caliper supported. Do not put undue pressure on the brake hose.
  • Right now we are taking off the axle nut. If you are not using air tools, this should be done while the car is on the ground with the wheels blocked.
  • Using a pry-bar apply downward pressure on the lower control arm. As you push down the hub will separate from the complete strut assembly.
  • Remove the top three mounting nuts for the top of the complete strut assembly.
  • There is one nut in the center never remove it. Taking it off will release the tension of the spring and may cause damage or severe injury.
  • As you take off the last nut, have your other hand supporting the complete strut assembly to hold it up. You don't want it to fall off and potentially tear brake lines or rip the cv axle boot.
  • Always mount the top three bolts first. It gives the added support for getting the bottom of the complete strut assembly in.
  • When reassembling make sure to tighten everything to proper specification. Refer to the instruction sheet within the box for torque specifications.
  • It is good practice to lubricate the area where the quick install complete strut assembly enters the hub. It will make it easier to get the quick install complete strut assembly into place. (Wheel bearing grease will work).
  • Put the lower mounting bolt back into place and tighten it.
  • Re-attach the stabilizer link.
  • Put the brake line mounting bracket back into place.
  • Put the axle nut back on. It needs to be torqued to proper specifications in order to prevent premature wear of the wheel bearing. If you are not using air tools, this step need to be completed at the end with a torque wrench while the vehicle is on the ground with the wheels blocked.
  • In theory you do not have to remove the axle nut in order to remove the complete strut assembly. It is good practice because it reduces the chances of pulling the axle apart.
  • Put the rotor back onto the hub assembly. You may find it easier to put a nut on to hold it in place while you're doing your other work.
  • Remount the caliper bracket.
  • Tighten these bolts by hand first. Afterward, make sure to tighten them down to proper specification.
  • Put the rest of the brake assembly back together.
  • When tightening the wheel, go in a star pattern. This will ensure that equal pressure is placed on the rotor.
  • Always double-check your work, and after any repair make sure to test drive your vehicle.
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Window Regulator Replacement

CAUTION: Before changing your window regulator, please refer to your vehicle’s specific service or shop manual. Every vehicle is different, so the steps outlined herein are a guideline, and may differ from your specific make or model.

Getting Started:

Before you get started, you’ll want to gather the following tools:
  • A plastic pry tool
  • Screwdrivers
  • Silicone spray
  • Lithium grease
  • Painters/masking tape
  • Sockets/wrenches
  • Ziploc bags (to store removed bolts/screws)
For older model cars you may also need:
  • Chisel
  • Hammer
  • Drill
We recommend using the painters/masking tape to secure your window to the door, so that when replacing the regulator there is no damage done to the window glass.

Step 1 – Removing The Trim And Interior Panel


Before removing any panels, we recommend disconnecting the negative (-) battery terminal for your own safety.

  • To start, you will need to locate the hidden screws (see fig 1.1) holding your interior trim panel in place. Your specific service manual or shop manual can help you locate these screws. Generally, the window/lock controls will need to be gently pried out to reveal screws, as well as areas near the bottom of the door.
  • With all the hidden screws removed, it is now time to remove the trim panel. Start by taking your plastic pry tool along the bottom of the door to begin popping the trim panel out of place (see fig 1.2). The panel should pop out (think of it as taking the lid off Tupperware) after you have made your way around the entire door. If any sections do not come free, it may be possible that a hidden screw is still holding the panel to the door.
  • With the trim panel removed, you should see material between where the trim panel was and where the door panel is (see fig 1.3). This material acts as a water and sound barrier to the elements, and should be preserved in its original state. Take care not to damage this section.

Step 2 – Removing The Window Regulator


If you haven’t already done so, secure the window glass to the door with masking tape (start on the glass, running strips up and over the door frame) so that when the regulator is removed, the glass doesn’t get damaged. Depending on the age of your vehicle, the regulator will be fastened by either bolts or rivets. To remove rivets, use a hammer and chisel to remove the rivet heads, and then drill out the centre of the rivets.

  1. If your regulator is bolted in, use the appropriate tools to remove all the connecting bolts (see fig 2.1) from your door .
  2. During this process you may need to move the window glass up or down to gain access to bolts or rivets. Take care not to damage the window glass.
  3. With all the bolts/rivets removed, disconnect the regulator plug (see fig 2.2) from its motor and remove the regulator from the door.
  4. At this point, it is a good idea to inspect any weather stripping, seals or seams (see fig 2.3) in the window operation. Replace any seals as needed, and use the silicone spray to lubricate the windows run channels.

Step 3 – Installing The New Window Regulator


Installation is essentially removal in reverse, so if you’ve been carefully following the steps so far installation will be easy.

  1. Begin by moving the new regulator into place, and secure with proper bolts.
  2. Line up the window glass and regulator and ensure all contact points match up (see fig 3.1). Attach the window glass to the regulator.
  3. Re-connect the regulator plug to the motor (see fig 3.2) and test the window. The window should function normally.
  4. With the new regulator installed and functionality restored, begin reassembling the door with the weather/sound barrier.
  5. Snap the trim panel back into place as appropriate. Snap any other removed components back into place (see fig 3.3).

Congratulations, you have successfully changed your window regulator!


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Disclaimer: Even though every attempt is made to ensure this information is complete and accurate, it is impossible to account for all possible circumstances or situations. Please consult with a qualified auto technician before attempting to perform any work you are not qualified to do. Automobiles can be hazardous to work on; be sure to take all necessary safety precautions. Failure to do so may result in property damage or personal injury.